A visit to Goa definitely demands one trip away from the beaches into its dense interiors. From the open sunlit skies, get lost in its maze-like forested roads. Despite these areas being populated, the pristine nature of the area and the calmness remain. The people show you how to be one with the surroundings.
Goa was an ancient scholarly recluse. The wise old men of yesteryears found the waterfalls, dense foliage, and creeks conducive to their quest for learning. Unlike most other temples of India, which date back through centuries and were built to be seen prominently in the city, Goa’s temples hold a different charm. They were built to be hidden from the Portuguese converters and date back only until the time of their rule. All the previous ones from before their rule disappeared.
But there are always exceptions – this particular village being one.
Reaching Surla
The temple is about 56 kilometers or 1.5 hours from Madgaon city. It is nestled deep in the woods, located at the foot of the Anmod Ghat, which connects Goa to Karnataka. As you enter the Bhagwan Mahavir National park you are transported into another world. The thin winding roads are crowded with monkey families and wild cattle. The forest seems to be bursting onto the road. Few families are scattered around the roads and also further inside. They are secure in the belief that the deity will protect them.
The temple
It feels like the Surla stream below, the chattering monkeys and the birds join together into an ethereal song and sing continuously for the lord. The iron ore-rich red earth tambdi and the village lend their names to the temple to make it Tambdi Surla. A recently headless Nandi sits watching the linga, guarding it. Just outside the inner sanctum lie the exquisitely carved stone images of Brahma and Vishnu. The carvings on the temple ceiling and pillars are amazingly intricate and 3 dimensional, an example of the Kadamba-Yadava architecture, and this can be found nowhere else in Goa as this is the only surviving Basalt temple of the Kadamba period (11th century). There is a priest cum caretaker who stays there throughout the day – a local appointed by the authorities. The temple is still living – as in villagers continue to visit it for worship. Local legend has it that a King Cobra stays near the Linga permanently.
In front of the entrance to the temple stands a Tulsi pedestal always lit by agarbatti. The temple has survived Muslim invasions and Portuguese persecution in its almost perfect condition due to its remote location at the foot of the Western Ghats which surround the site in a sheer wall of impenetrable vegetation.
Added attraction
The Tambdi Surla waterfall is just a 90-minute walk from the temple. It’s an easy trail to trek, with little streams and butterflies crossing en-route, and many monkeys and reptiles too. The best time to visit Surla and the falls would be around September-October when the river is in full spate, there is lots of greenery around, and it is easier to walk on hard ground under fresh sunlight.
The escape plan
A day’s trip towards the east side of Goa should cover all these – the quiet ride, the temple, the trek, the waterfall and a short picnic beside it, though one must beware of the notorious monkeys. It is a perfect getaway from the touristy cities to a place where you can connect with nature and yourself.
Driving uptil Surla is long and beautiful. But the roads are narrow and treacherous, pickled with many animal visits. So one must be careful as a little slip off from the edge can land you stuck between two lofty tree trunks you can’t get out of, or jammed into a mountain slope. Stock up with a full can of petrol too, as petrol pumps are there but few. There are no restaurants near the temple or the waterfall. There are few eateries near the Anmod Ghat police station, but it is advisable to carry some snacks or lunch of your own, to add to the picnic’s appeal. This area lacks telephone connectivity; it is that deep into the forest. So be ready to get cut off from your business calls and everyone outside for a couple of hours!
The temple premises are littered with naughty monkeys you could spend the whole day watching. To see human-like behavior in animals is always enchanting, one realizes the value of simple movements we do when we watch someone else do it with more dedication, in this case, the monkeys! So this place is a must visit for nature and animal enthusiasts. The 2-3 little shop owners at the entrance of the temple are therefore armed with long sticks to shoo the monkeys from the goodies at their stores. They seem to have a nice camaraderie on too.
The river runs along the south of the temple. It isn’t safe for swimming so do not attempt to.
A visit here will confirm to you that the locals and rulers of the 11th century could have found no better place than this for the temple. Even if you aren’t inclined towards a particular religion, places like this give you the tranquility that cannot be found easily. So no matter what your state of mind, do visit!