Within the residence of the Joshi family, along the Swatantrapath road, resides the protector of the town, Lord Damodar. In his honour, Vasco-da-Gama bursts into colour annually every Shraavan month (fourth month of the Hindu calendar), for a week to a fortnight-long celebration and fair. People from all over Goa take this chance to visit this humble working port town now flocked with innumerable stalls selling everything from kitchenware and food to clothes and paintings. The grounds along the road get inundated with goggle-eyed children waiting for a chance on the Ferris wheel or dancing cars. Neither heavy rains nor religious inclination stops the Goans from paying their respects to Lord Damodar.
But how did Lord Damodar come to become this town’s protector?
History
The story goes back more than a hundred years when Mormugao had 4 parts – Alt de Murgaon, Frigosia de Marmugoa, Baina and Pras de Murgaon (this changed to Vasco da Gama in 1915). Only ten to twelve houses existed in Vasco then, rest was covered by fields. Baina had few Hindu families and Mangor Hill had few Christians. This quiet region, years earlier, was struck by two epidemics. The Plague attacked in 1835, and Cholera (patki) in 1899. In a heart-to-heart with Mr Paresh Joshi, the great-grandson of Sri Anant Subrai Joshi, the person instrumental in starting this Saptah, the tumultuous history of this town was revealed. “When the epidemic hit, many families began migrating. All the Hindu families during this time got closer, around 3000 people then. It was a time of desperation. One of them suggested they go to Zambauli and take ‘Kaul’ (Prasad). That temple then had a person who could invoke the deity, get possessed by the lord, and then answer people’s problems. Back then, there was no definite route to reach Zambolim. The journey was treacherous. A group of men led by my great-grandfather travelled by bullock cart till Cortalim, through forests, with no light, then had to switch to a ferry to cross a canal, then trudge through the more dense jungle in palanquins and on foot. The temples in Goa were hidden deep in the forest due to Portuguese carrying out religious conversions. They must have taken two days to reach there not knowing when they would return. On reaching, they attended the Kaul, were given a coconut as prasad, and advised by the person to ask people to clean the town and establish the coconut in the town anywhere, since it didn’t have a temple. They took it and arrived back home by night. It was the day of Nag Panchmi”.
Paresh Joshi explained that most Goan houses then were influenced by Portuguese architecture – they had a private hall (Diwan-e-khaas) and a public hall (Diwan-e-aam). He continued, “Because of the time of arrival, the only possible place seemed our house. Our family were Bhatkaars (landlords). We had a house larger than average where people used to come always. So the nariyal was installed in the public hall.”
A doctor named Kaatu de Souza had been trying to treat people but to no avail. The Joshi family had a resident Pujari, Shanaimam, who knew Ayurveda. So he had started helping the people who came to their house to pray to the Kaul. The people who came to their house were miraculously cured. Zamboli’s Damodar had healed them, and they decided to have a temple for Damodar, the first in Vasco.
Paresh Joshi ended the story by saying, “This was how people started believing Sri Damodar to be the ‘Graam Devat’ (lord/protector of the town). The Portuguese knew our house as ‘Damodaraachi saal’.”
The Joshi family came to be associated with Damodar, and subsequently, many other temples popped up in Vasco. When the Damodar temple came to be known to all people, Sri Anant Joshi decided to start a Saptah for the people, around the time of Nag Panchmi. He wanted to bring all the people together through the Saptah. He got this idea from a man called Sant Borikar, who had started a crusade for protecting the Hindu religion by conducting 7 days of continuous Naama smaran (invoking a god’s name) called Saptah.
So after consulting with the elders, he brought a bhajan mandli from Madgaon to Vasco to teach people here about bhajans. People here loved it very much. They tried to do it too, even though they didn’t know much about ragas.
In an article by Paresh Joshi’s father, Mr Vasant Joshi, another piece of history was found. “After a batch of rains, the people got together again. In 1960 there was a robbery in the temple – all the silver- crown, kalash, nariyal etc – had been stolen. Despite lodging an FIR, the thieves couldn’t be found. So in 1970, a new idol was installed.”
Rituals practised today
Mr Kholkar, the treasurer, has been around for many years. He kindly explained the rituals that would be happening this year. “On 15 August, the day of Nag panchmi, around 30 pujaris will chant the Maha Rudra from 8.30 am till afternoon. In the evening few temporary stages will be created outside the temple and elsewhere, where bhajan mandalis will perform. The next day Mr Paresh Joshi will bring the Nariyal (coconut) from the Zambolim Damodar temple and offer it in the Vasco temple. After the puja, different bhajan mandalis from Maharashtra and Goa will begin singing one after the other and continue without a break for the next twenty-four hours. Late in the same evening, beautifully decorated tableaux (par) with mythological themes will be brought in procession to the temple from various parts of the town by different groups of the community (Falwale, Nabhik Samaj, Daivagnya Brahmin Samaj, Bajarkar Samiti, Vishwakarma Samaj and the Gadekar Samaj). The next morning the Nariyal Prasad of the previous year will be cracked open and distributed among all devotees.”
For Mr Paresh Joshi the Saptah and pooja have been part of his family since he was born. Recounting his childhood he smiled and said, “Maybe at the age of 7 or 8, I must have asked my father out of curiosity, ‘How come there is a temple in the house?’ but having the deity at home was not unordinary. Visiting Zambauli was routine for us since childhood. We were god fearing people.”
The Saptah
Time is a magician! Over time, things change without you realising it until it is quite different from when you began. Paresh Joshi recollected, “The tabloids before, used to be brought on bullock carts, with people pulling them, holding lanterns in the night. That is why I felt that during the Saptah the city turned into a village! In my childhood the Saptah used to be within our compound; the Portuguese never allowed all this on the streets. As the intensity of protecting the religion died down, the 7 days of Naama Smaran died down to 24 hours. So the Mela here may happen for 7-15 days, but in the temple, we have just 24 hours of non-stop bhajans.”
The religious conversions were limited to a particular period. Thereafter they had died down. But the Portuguese continued to live in Goa for years after that. They mingled and became one with the Goans. The most remarkable aspect of the Saptah is, despite its connection with Sri Damodar, it is a festival of all people. They come and pray for peace and health no matter their origin, religion or creed. Paresh Joshi says, “People can come and visit the temple any day. But why is it that they come on that one day and stand in a queue? It is because of Shraddha (faith). That is why I like to call it a ‘Lokutsav’. During the Saptah, no matter what religion, people treat it as a festival of the town. They invite relations from other towns to come to Vasco for the Saptah and share a meal with them; they light up their houses. The head priest of St Andrew’s Church has always visited my house for the last ten years and shared the meal of that day with us. We have that kind of a religious bonding. Today a Christian friend informed me he had sold a whole booklet of donations. The Saptah isn’t just for the Hindus, it is for the town.”
Aside from the usual stalls and items on sale, the Vasco Saptah has two other specialities. Khaajgi is considered to be Lord Damodar’s favourite sweet. So during the Saptah time, khaajgi sweet owners have a ball! Everyone buys in bulk quantities. The other phenomenon is Purumaith. Purumaith is a long-standing practice of saving for the rainy days in the major Goan cities. This Saptah used to be a Purumaith Feast! Vendors would sell durable goods like onions and tamarind to last the monsoon. Also, it was the time families would start purchasing utensils for giving as dowry for their daughters’ marriages which would be after the Shraavan month. This culture was followed by both the Goan Hindu and Christian families and continues even today.
This year preparations for the Saptah started 2 weeks in advance, with the laying of wooden shelters and barricades. There is anticipation and excitement in the air. This would be the 119th year since it all began, and Mr Paresh Joshi revealed they are planning on starting something new. “From this year, we have decided to have Annadaan Seva. On the first day, we will serve free meals from 12.30 pm to 5.30 pm. People have been contributing religiously, and the members of the Saptah committee thought this would be a good move, as many ferry walls also land up here and need food.”
The Joshi family have had the longest standing neighbours, and friends. With a grateful and humble tone, Paresh Joshi said, “Bandekar and Joshi’s families have been neighbours for long, probably more than a hundred years. Nana Baab is one of the best philanthropic persons; he contributes a lot, advices a lot.” On another note, he said, “Hosting the Saptah for my family and me is a privilege. But it is also a big responsibility. I feel lucky, honoured.” Regarding the Saptah, he has just one wish, “I want all devotees to be happy and live together. Let’s keep it up!”
Well, what more could he ask for! This Saptah echoes the Goan sentiment of care and love for all sans boundaries. It is one of its kind, and it is this month! See if you can experience it for yourself too!